Istanbul, Not Constantinople

We took an long weekend last week to visit Istanbul. For however long we live here, our intention is to take advantage of how compact Europe really is. We have an ever rotating short list of places to see and Istanbul was certainly on that list. Istanbul is only a two and a half hour flight, but it is another world. The trip itself was a bit impromptu. A few weeks ago, I called up She Who Must Be Obeyed from my office after realizing that I still have quite a bit of vacation left to take this year. (It is Europe after all). We looked at a few different places and Istanbul hit the checkboxes for reasonably priced tickets, hotel and weather. 

I am really glad that we went to Istanbul, but it is probably not high on my list of places that I would like to return. It may have something to do with the time of year. This was the off-season and consequently, the tourist numbers were down. This means that the hawker to tourist ratio was pretty high. Throughout the trip, you literally could not walk 30 feet in any direction and not encounter someone trying to sell you something, shine your shoes, or separate you from your Lira in some other fashion. Understanding that everyone needs to make a living in the ways that they can, it did not take long before the constant assault put me in a bit of a mood.

Undeterred, SWMBO planned out an epic march through the city. I really wish we had tracked all the walking we did on the first day, because it had to have been seven or eight miles. That first day, we hit all the major sites and did not use a cab or public transportation once. 

Our first stop was the Grand Bazaar, principally because it was close to our hotel. It is impressive in scale, but I am surprised that it can support so many shops selling the same items. Grand is probably overselling it in typical Istanbul fashion. Most of the shops are filled with the usual trinkets and trash you would expect. All of them with someone shouting to you “My Friend, My Friend, where are you from?” “Something to please the beautiful Lady.” 

I never knew I had so many friends in Turkey.

The Spice Market was a similar, if smaller scale experience. We did not purchase any spices while there. The open containers seemed too much of an opportunity to have your spices flavored with essence du vermin.

Probably the highlight of Istanbul would have to be the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque. I lump them together because they share a common area between them and we returned several times while we were there. The Hagia Sofia is truly amazing, largely as a result of its age. It has been there in its current form since 500AD. The Blue Mosque is a beautiful building but is 1000 years younger than the Hagia Sofia. 

Close by the Hagia Sofia is the Basilica Cistern. It is quite large and has a couple of pillars that are footed with heads of Medusa. The cistern itself is filled with large Carp swimming between the pillars. 

We visited several Mosques while we were in Istanbul. SWMBO had to wear hijab during the visits. With her Middle Eastern heritage, she can totally pull it off. The Mosques are very open and in some respect plain, except for the intricate tile-work. Unlike Christian cathedrals with statues and paintings, the Mosques are absent any of that imagery which makes the open space of these large buildings more impressive. The mosques are open to visit except during the daily prayer times. During which, the call to prayers can be deafening if you are close by. 

The food in Istanbul is pretty decent. A lot of Kebabs, Kofte, and other lamb products.I had some very nice grilled lamb hearts on raw onion near the Spice Market. We also had a stew cooked in a sealed clay pot, complete with touristy flaming presentation. My beverage of choice for these meals was an Efes, the local pilsner beer. It would not generally be a go to beer for me, but complemented the spice of the grilled food. We also did the traditional Turkish tea and Turkish Coffee. I like the former, not so crazy about the latter.

The age of cities like Istanbul always has an impact on me. The fact that you can walk down the street and see buildings that are more than 1000 years old, and see roman ruins repurposed as building materials for later structures, is really impressive. It puts your own time in the world into perspective.

Elections

Election Time

The best thing about a blog is that you are unencumbered by references or facts of any kind. Your unsubstantiated opinions and prejudices can be fully expressed. A little like the recent debate.

I have been observing the Belgian driving habits for a couple of years now. Originally, I thought the epically bad driving was the result of a lack of practice and driving instruction in general. I am beginning to question that now. I think it may be that everyone starts their vehicular experience with scooters. They dart everywhere, ignoring the rules of the road and add a level of chaos that is not to be taken lightly. I will consider myself lucky if I am able to leave this country without running one of them down.  

Worse than the scooter riders are the motorcyclists. In  Belgium, motorcyclists drive much like the scooters, only faster and more recklessly. Today I was driving home from work, at my usual 130kph (81mph). Traffic was heavy so the motorcyclist did what they always do, which is to lane split. you see this in the US when traffic is slow, but here it is common to see it at full speed. And understand, the roads are really narrow here. I am truly surprised that the roads don’t run red with blood. It’s amazing.

In other news, it is election time here, just like home. We cannot vote here yet. We need to have lived here five years and it has been just over 2. Feels longer. Still, we can observe the process. Every night people come by and fill our mail slot with pamphlets and flyers with particularly homely people on it. I am sure the slogans are riveting, but I miss the impact because they are in Flemish. Occasionally French, but they wont get elected here.

I am proud to say that we have filled in our absentee ballots ready to be sent back to the US and then ignored or rejected because of some loophole. We can't vote here, but we are still legal there.

And In Other Beer News...

Rocky Mountain Oyster Beer?

Whoa, And I thought I didn't like fruit in my beer.

Americans are a Loud Species

Ok, to be preemptive against my science pals. I know Americans are not a species. But we are loud. I am sitting at the hotel bar in San Diego and the noise from the semi-inebriated conference attendees is deafening. This is after the dinner at the Yard House that was also tinnitus inducing.

I am not sure why this is. Perhaps Americans are just more exuberant. Like a puppy. Europeans are generally not this loud. The Belgians have an excuse. When every army has leveled most of your towns, it probably engenders a more reserved attitude. We are fortunate that way. As Americans, We like to share and think people actually care what we have to say.

I have to say, it is refreshing. It is nice to come home and be among my vociferous American Family.

Except for maybe the chick from New Jersey who's voice could cut glass.

Lagging Jets

I got about 4 hours of sleep on my flight last night. San Diego to Chicago was middle of the day, so no sleep to be had. Quick turn in Chicago, which fortunately came in two gates away from the Brussels leg of my flight. A pre dinner drink and two glasses of wine with dinner and I was out somewhere over Newfoundland. Woke up over the White Cliffs of Dover. So generally not bad as far as these trips usually go.

I really can’t complain too much. My company flies me Business Class on any long haul, so compared to my days in VC backed start-ups, I am living large. SWMBO informed me on this trip that I am less than 200K away from a million miles on United and lifetime Gold status. Considering I have about 350K on British Airways and another 400-500K on various other airlines, I have probably absorbed more than my fair share of solar radiation.

Landing in Brussels this morning, my driver was waiting for me. (Another perk of Big companies). He drove me home and I took a quick shower and headed into the office. (I drove myself. I don’t want people thinking I am losing touch.) Unfortunately I had meetings scheduled all afternoon. Normally I am pretty good with the jet lag. When you travel as much as I do, you lose some of your sense of temporal space, but you also develop coping mechanisms. As an example, rather than sleeping in and heading to the airport, I set my alarm for 3AM and worked until I needed to head to the airport. In this way, I guaranteed I would be able to sleep on my transatlantic. Right now I am trying to push through until about 9:30 so that I can be fully reset for the weekend. Which in itself is a little foolish because I will be heading back to the US next Thursday.

Hopefully, I will get a full 8 tonight and be ready to go in the morning.

More Travel Rules

As I am sitting in the Red Carpet Club awaiting my flight home from San Diego, it seemed like an opportune time to add another installment to my Rules for Travel.

• Deodorant is not optional people. Especially on international long haul flights.
• One carry on and one personal item does Not mean garment bag, duffle, purse and duty free.
• If you fly twice a year, don't be so indignant when the airline won't give you a "complementary" upgrade. No, they really don't care about your business.
• if you take a call in the airline lounge, there is no need to yell. I do not care about your "BIG" deal.
• Liquids in a plastic bag is no longer a new rule. There is no excuse to hold up security because you had no idea that your shampoo was a liquid. The corollary is that TSA does not care that your shampoo is expensive and is not available in a 3.4 oz bottle.
• To the guy surreptitiously farting in Business Class. I know it was you.
• You are flying to Brussels, not the Serengeti, leave the safari pants home.
• Take the backpack off before getting on the plane. I would appreciate not being brained in the aisle seat because you are not spatially aware.
• My headphones are on, that means I don't want to talk to you
• My headphones are off, I still don't want to talk to you

They Might Be Giants

Big Weekend in Brussels. The Annual Brussels Beer Weekend started on Friday. We had the good fortune of being joined by a current colleague who recently moved back to the US after living in Denmark for a few years. Unfortunately, her husband wound up being held up in Frankfurt as a result of a strike, so he had the travel day from hell while we headed out to enjoy some beverages crafted by monks (and non-monks). 

It is always interesting seeing a festival like this through the eyes of friends who have never been there before. We always have a good time at the Beer Weekend. It is crowded, but there are always quite a few locals mixed in with the tourists. And with more than 300 beers available, there is always something interesting to try.

The big winner of this visit for me was the Ter Dolen Triple and SWMBO really liked the Ter Dolen Blond. The triple had both some grassy notes as well as some sweetness and real depth. For me, a solid 4 Drunk Monks. The Blond was also quite good. Lighter than the triple with a bit more hop. I would happily drink it on a hot summer day (If we ever had any of those here.). Three and half Drunk Monks.

The most unique beer of the evening was easily the Strubbe Grand Cru Oud Bruin. This is an aged beer with some lambic sourness and a strong depth of flavor. While not a kriek, there is a hint of cherry and prune in the finish. Very complex and not as harsh as some others that I have tried. Three and a half Drunk Monks.

SWMBO also tried a Keyte Triple. This was a very classic triple. Some grassiness and yeasty flavors. Not as deep in flavor as the Ter Dolen, but crisp and quite enjoyable. Three and a half Drunk Monks.

We finished the evening off at Chaloupe d’Or in the Grand Place. You pay for the scenery here, but the food is usually decent and this evening was no exception. SWMBO had a steak frite while our guest and I had moules frites. The moules were plump and very tasty and complimented an Afligem Blond quite nicely.

Saturday and Sunday we stayed in our little town. It was Reuzenfeest, which is basically one day of vendors followed by one day of massive yard sale. Both closing down the town center. Saturday evening a very nice fireworks display was on offer and the whole thing culminated on Sunday with a Parade of Giants. As we live in the town center, we were basically locked in all weekend, which is not a bad thing with so much going on.

In the middle of all this, SWMBO broke out some cheese, wonderful bread and some saucisse for a little afternoon snack. Inspired by the Beer Festival the night before, it was a perfect opportunity for a Leute Bokbier. This is a dark beer with a creamy mouthfeel and some light caramel flavor. It went spectacularly well with the nutty 12 grain bread that SWMBO selected. 

I have commented on this before, but it always amazes me, how much is always going on in our town. Every month there is some festival or event. And living in the middle of it all is quite a change from the suburbs where we were in the US. I am not sure why this is. Perhaps it is that many Belgians do not move too far from home and so are very connected to their community. Maybe they just like a big party. I am not sure what it is, but is fun to be a small part of.