Never Leave the House Without an Umbrella

Today started out promising. Clear (ish) skies and somewhat warmer weather. By the time we emerged from the Metro at Park it was sprinkling. Once we reached the Grand Place it was raining. And by the time we were half way to the fishmarket, it was dumping.

Change of plans.

We dove down into the nearest metro station and decided to head back home and can the day out wandering Brussels. From the look of the Metro station at Broukerie, quite a few other people had the same idea. We reached home about 30 minutes later, soaked to the bone and ready for something warm to eat. After drying off and changing out of the wet clothes we hopped in the car and made our way to Le Chalet Vert a cute Brasserie near the local Carrefour. She who must be obeyed had the Spaghetti Bolognaise and I had the Boudin blanc and boudin noir with applesauce. Tasty as usual. Boudin Noir was something that I could only occaisionally get when we would drive into DC to go to Les Halles. Here, most brasserie will have it on the menu. Bonus for me. I like it, although it probably does nothing for my cholesterol. With my boudin, I ordered a Keizer Karel also known as a Charles Quint. I ordered the blonde version and it was an excellent complement to the boudin. This is a beer that lovers of german beer would really like. It has a very pronounced hop character that is almost pilsner like. At 8.5% it is strong, but not overpowering. Just a really good, crisp beer. 4 Drunk Monks!

Malheur 10

Our Thursday routine has become heading to Den Engel for steak frites and Bernaise. Thursday tends to be a late night for me with conference calls and meetings, so it's a good excuse to head out to dinner. I have been gradually working my way through their beer list and chose the Malheur 10 this evening. This is a pretty blonde beer that comes in a very pronounced Tulip glass. This is the benefit of ordering beers in a pub in Belgium. They always come in the appropriate glass and that can be half of the fun. The Malheur arrived with 1 inch of head over the golden beer. The odor was yeasty and hoppy. The flavor is the same with a bit of sweetness and some fruit. At 10%, this is a strong beer but the hops and sweetness really balance this out. This is a good example of the style and I think the balance sets it above others I have had recently. Four Drunk Monks!

Cultural Touchpoints

When you live in the US and speak to a foreigner, often they do not pick up on the cultural references and slang that is used in normal conversation. For instance a year ago, we had to explain to our Dutch Golfing buddy what a MILF was. How would he know, he speaks Dutch most of the time. There is probably a Dutch equivalent, but it would involve many paired vowels and 20 letter words. But I digress, my point is that when YOU are the foreigner, your speech patterns have to change. For instance, sports references. Two minute drill means nothing in Belgium. Neither does red zone, three strikes or YANKEES SUCK. Well, maybe that last one translates, they just switch Yankees for Man U. Media references might translate, but it really depends on the movie. Almost anything from the Schwarzenegger, Pacino or De Niro ouvre translates. Seinfeld, maybe. Will Farrel, Chris Farley, Chevy Chase, Not so much. What is weird is what American media makes it across the pond. The Kardashians, Toddlers and Tiaras and What not to Wear are in heavy rotation on the local cable. As are uncut versions of Entourage and Big Love. So just imagine what that stew of images makes the US look like.

Every day, I find myself using a term or slang and then having to stop and say , "sorry, what I mean is..." It is a learning process and it is probably making me a better communicator, but I am worried that when I return to the US, I will be clueless about the cultural references that will occur in my absence.

The Belgian Healthcare System and Less Than Butch Beers

So today was my first experience with the Belgian Healthcare System and based on this limited sample set, I think I may like socialized medicine. I made an appointment with a local GP. No direction other than I heard they spoke English really well. They actually could have taken me the same day, but being gainfully employed, I needed to delay them. When I arrived this morning, the office was pretty typical GP. Lots of medical leaflets (in Dutch), a big basket of toys to occupy the kids, and a few oddly-smelling elderly people. The usual fare.

The doc came out to get me in the waiting room. We spent the first 10 minutes just chatting about our town and what brought me from the US. The physical again was the usual drill. All in all I was in his office for about 40 minutes. We spent a some time discussing different options for my meds and he wrote my scripts. I paid him 23 euro which I now submit to the Mutual who wil repay me 17 euro of it. When I brought the prescriptions into the pharmacy, I expected to drop them off and pick them up later, but they assembled the meds right away and for another 20 euro I was on my way. Just one of my meds on my US Insurance co-pay would have been $50. Overall, a pretty positive experience.

Tonights beer is Brigand. The label of this beer looks like it was designed to capture the same kitsch as an Old Spice Ad, but is is more Village People. It pours out a very clear golden color which may make it accessible to people who don't like the turbidity of most bottle fermented beers. It is yeasty and has pronouced hops and at 9% there is a significant alcohol bite. It tastes mass produced and is not a favorite. Three Drunk Monks.

Weekend in Liege

We spent this weekend in Liege. Liege is home to the Liege style Gaufre (waffle) and Boulet Liegeoise (Meatballs in a brown sauce with raisins). It also seems to be home to police sirens and public urination, but perhaps that was just coincidence. She who must be obeyed is from Detroit and has a softspot in her heart for urban decay, so I think she liked Liege more than I did. Frankly, I found it a little too seedy and run down. One can only witness so much al fresco micturition whilst dodging copious quantities of dog poo before it has an impact on your impression of a city.

We did however, have a wonderful meal at La Table a Francois in the city center which made up for some of the town's shortcomings. This is a great little place proving my theory that one should venture down the side streets to find the best restaurants. They had a prixe fixe menu for 25 euro per person with appetizer, entree and dessert and not a soul in the place who spoke English. We started off with the amuse bouche which was a salad, with a slice of homemade terrine and a really amazing cauliflower soup. Appetizers followed, she who must be obeyed opted for a tomato and mozzarella salad with outstanding mozzarella but a February tomato. I got the mille feuille of salmon tartar with truffle oil. Entrees were the Lamb shank for my bride and rouget in lobster sauce for me. Both excellent. The menu rounded off with Chocolate fondant for her and creme brulee for me. A total bargain for 50 euro and worth staying in Liege overnight to experience it. A definite Four and a Half Drunk Monks!

I may be working from a fairly small sampling, but in general, it seems that Walloonian towns like Liege are generally a bit more in need of repair and a little dirtier than their Flemish counterparts. Both have historic old buildings, cobblestones and quaint little town centers, but in Flanders there tends to be more construction and everything seems on the upswing. Walloonia has excellent food but may lack some energy. So it is a trade off. I think that is what makes the Brussels area a nice place to live. We have the vibrancy and the food. We just don't have a government.

She who must be obeyed had a mission for our trip. She had read about Boulet Liegeoise and wanted to try them, so we found Brasserie for lunch that had them on the menu and open air seating. Boulet Liegeoise are pretty large meatballs with quite a bit of filler and are served (predictably) as a pair, with frites. I opted for crepes champignon paired with a Val Dieu Triple. As you can see from the photo above, the Val Dieu pours a bright golden color with a small head. At 9% this is a pretty strong beer, but it does not have much alcohol bite to it. This is offset by a distinct sweetness. There is a bit of hop and some pronounced fruity and citrusy notes, but it is the sweetness that you really notice. If you like that, then this is a great beer. For me however, I just found the sweetness a bit too much. Three and a Half Drunk Monks.

Recognizing the Effort

She who must be obeyed dove on the grenade this evening and made dinner. This is a pretty big deal, because in fact she does not really cook. I do 90% of the cooking in this family and when I don't, we usually go out to eat. The 10% that she usually contributes is largely assembly rather than cooking. It consists of a menu of sandwiches, chicken baked in pasta sauce and the occasional spaghetti. And as I know she will read this; NO buying lasagna at the Italian shop and reheating it is not cooking.

Tonight however she tried her hand at slow roasting pork ribs in 5 spice powder and making her own asian barbecue sauce. This was accompanied by asian braised cabbage and reheated store-bought fried rice. This is a pretty high bar for someone who doesn't cook and I applaud the effort. The ribs were cooked perfectly, but the sauce let her down. I blame Tyler Florence, his recipes are crap. The cabbage was actually quite good. And the rice, not a winner, but that is not her fault.

As busy as my week has been, it would be really poor form to criticize her efforts. She certainly seemed harried when I got home and I really appreciate her trying to take some of the workload off my back. So, I love you dear, but I think I will do the cooking tomorrow.

And now for this evening's tasting. The La Botteresse Blond starts off well with one look at its farmer's daughter / Stripper label. The pour has ashort lived head and dark caramel color. The beer is exceptionally floral and citrusy with strong spicy notes. It is so complex that I think would be a love it or hate it kind of beer. I don't love it or hate it. It is interesting and would make a good aperetif but is not an everyday beer. Three and a Half Drunk Monks.

Celebrating Third World Status

Depending upon who you believe, today Belgium set the record for time without a government. Wresting the title from Iraq. So to celebrate, I opened up a Straffe Toeback a Quattro from the Scheldebrouwerij maker of the Zeezuiper reviewed earlier.

The Straffe pours an almost light caramel color with little to no head. The beer has a very spicy, herbal character with a strong alcohol bite. At 9.5% that is understandable and as a whiskey drinker, something that I do not mind. It might turn some people off however. The flavor is actually quite complex. There are many layers of herbal notes and hopp. The finish is really crisp and clean. Overall a very strong offering and one I would recommend (even just for the label). She who must be obeyed thinks it is a 4 but I think given the alcohol bite it is three and a half drunk monks!

Soupe de Trappiste et le fromage, Or Trappiste Beer and Cheese Soup

Soup is the ultimate food born of necessity. What is more basic than extracting the last nutrients from leftover roasted bones and then using vegetables or other tasty nuggets to stretch the base? One of my favorites (and one that should be on every bar menu) is beer and cheese soup. After my last post, it occured to me that I should try to make a beer and cheese soup using local beer. So here is my version:

1/4 cup bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4 inch strips
2 Onions sliced thin
3 clove of garlic minced
1 bottle of Chimay Bleu
4 cups chicken stock
1 Bay leaf
1 1/2 cups Gouda
1 1/2 cups Emmental
Salt & Pepper to taste

Crisp up the bacon in the bottom of a heavy pot. Scoop them out and reserve on a separate plate.
Sweat onions down until they are well browned. This will take 20-30 minutes.
Add garlic and sweat until clear
Deglaze with the bottle of beer. Scrape bottom of pot with a wooden spoon and let the beer cook down by 25%
Add Stock, bay leaf and bring to a simmer.
Once simmering, add the cheese in small batches until incorporated into the soup.
Taste and adjust seasoning.

When you serve, top with the crunchy bacon bits.

Pair with a nice crusty bread and you have a great lunch.

Beers with Roman Numerals

This evening, two from Brasserie Jandrain-Jandrenouille. IV Saison (as you may have picked up already, a saison) was the first up and it is the better of the pair. Spicy, herbal notes. A pronounced hoppy bitterness. This in many ways is like an IPA with a rounder, more full mouthfeel. Really a nice beer and one I would highly recommend if you have the opportunity to try it. Four Drunk Monks!!

The next beer was, wait for it, V Cense. How cute, another beer with a Roman numeral name. If these beers weren't so good, I would totally hate their names. But fortunately for all involved, they are good. Very good. The Cinq Cense is a dark amber in color. Less spice than the IV Saison but with good hop character. The V Cense has a bit of caramel malt flavor but not a lot of sweetness. It is balanced and complex. Three and a half Drunk Monks!

A Tale of Two Tastings

We went into Brussels the other day and while there, picked up a few new beers for tasting. She who must be obeyed was searching for a beer that she saw in the beer book called Pink Killer. This is a fruit-based beer with pink grapefruit juice as the fruit. One could predict how this would end. On pouring, the beer is indeed pink. A bit artificially so. The flavor? well, there really isnt one to speak of. There are some sweet notes and generally beery carbonation, but all in all it just doesnt make an impression. As she who must be obeyed commented, it just isnt worth the alcohol in my system. Shortly thereafter it was swirling down the drain. A probably overly generous two drunk monks.

By contrast, while she was wondering why she bought her Pink Killer, I was enjoying an Oud Beersel Oude Geuze. I am really beginning to like the Gueze. This one is blended from three different lambics. 1, 2 and 3 years old. The blend yields a very complex beer. It pours with a substantial, persistent head. She who must be obeyed wouldn't try it because she did not like the smell. To be honest it smells a bit like old barn but even that grows on you. The first sip has an almost metallic sourness which softens as you drink it. The flavor is really interesting. There is the sourness, some hop bite and some fruity and floral notes. These are really crisp and refreshing beers. I am becoming a big fan. Four and a half Drunk Monks!

244 Days Without A Government

Le Record du Monde - Het Wereld Record

Charles De Gaulle famously quipped "How can anyone govern a nation that has two hundred and forty-six different kinds of cheese". Belgium does not have that many cheeses, but it does have more than 700 beers and access to all the French cheese one could ask for. In my book, that makes Belgium even less governable than France and given that we are now 244 days without a government (see link above) and counting, I think Charles was right. . In other parts of the world, this would have led to sustained rioting and general chaos, but in Belgium, everyone pretty much just gets on with it. Different groups have suggested protests of everything from not shaving to not having sex until the governmental issues are resolved. This is kind of a far cry from flipping cars over and firebombing police lines like you might see in other regions with unstable governments. Quality of life is good enough that it probably doesn't make sense to make too many waves. The real issues are with the extremist national factions split down linguistic and cultural lines. Like in the US, the radical fringe may make everyone nervous, but the middle really dictates how far left or right the government actually goes. For us, the garbage is still being picked up, the police are still in force and nothing at all seems that unusual.

Which brings me to cheese. As I mentioned above, Belgium has access to a huge variety of cheeses from France and the surrounding areas. Unlike in the US, it is possible to get live cheese here. Unpasteurized and fully an entity to itself. In the US, the FDA has decided that Americans are too stupid to make the determination of whether they should take the risk of eating unpasteurized cheese. This is why cheese food products like Cheez Whiz and Kraft American Cheese actually sell. You cant want what you've never had. I have been telling anyone who would listen that French cheese is better for years. I would have brought suitcases of it home to prove my point if it wasnt for those damn beagles at Dulles airport. Now that we live in Europe, gooey, stinky, wonderful cheeses are an almost nightly ocurrance. The variety is really amazing and it is easy to get. There are fromagerie all over the place and great cheeses are also available in bread shops, groceries and the weekly markets. Obviously there are great cheeses in the US. Sharp Cheddar for example. But they really don't compare to a Reblechon, or Brie de Meaux made with raw, unpasteurized milk.

So, given the choice between a Belgian government or 700 beers and wonderful cheese, I'll take the beer and cheese.

After I wrote this blog, I found this http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/05/business/05cheese.html?_r=2&ref=dining Ugh.

Technology Assisted

Technology makes being an expat easier. Between Skype, Facebook, blogs, internet television, online newspapers, etc. it would be really easy to forget that you are living in a foreign country. Until you leave your house that is. Actually even in your house, it is hard to forget it. When you live in a 230 year old house in Northern Europe, there are little reminders everywhere. So, ignore my first comment. Still, with the ability to Skype with friends and family, and to share in their daily lives, it does help with the distance. I probably speak with my mother and see her on Skype, more than I ever did when we lived in the US. My daughter and I text and IM on facebook daily and there are the usual facebook entries. So while not a substitute for close contact, technology does make it easier.

Online TV tends to be a hit or miss prospect. On the upside, we get the Daily Show and Colbert Report. And we can buy TV series from iTunes. On the downside, there is limited hockey and the NFL online packages are as expensive as a Direct Tv Superfan pack in the US. Belgian TV is not exactly stellar. We tend to watch a lot of Discovery Channel on the Flemish television. She who must be obeyed has also become a huge fan of What not to Wear and other similarly brain rotting American Television. When Toddlers and Tiara's is in heavy rotation on European television, you know America is not putting it's best foot forward.

I thought by this point we would be in more withdrawl from the US. I think with the help of technology, homesickness will stay at bay for a little while longer. Although I could REALLY use some Enchiladas verde about now.

While I contemplate Mexican food, I am tasting a L'Autruche. This is essentially a Double pouring out a rich dark Amber. When I saw the color, I thought I was in for a treat, but not so much. The beer has quite a full and creamy mouthfeel with a distinct caramel malt sweetness. This beer could really benefit with some additional hop character. It doesnt have enough else going on so the sweetness dominates. Not bad but not great. Three Drunk Monks.

Zwyntje

She who must be obeyed went into Brussels today and came back loaded down with beers to try. She also bought a great Beers of Belgium book that is about 1600 pages of beers to try (Although the beer I just opened is not in it). Looks like I will be busy.

The first up is a Zwyntje Tripel. The aromas off of the beer are really spicey. Coriander and orange peel. These continue on the palate. The spice note of the beer makes it very crisp and light tasting. I really like this beer although I think the spice overtones might get a little old after a bottle. That being said, it is crisp and flavorful and certainly interesting. Three and a Half Drunk Monks!

Belgium, Land of lost businesses

Everywhere else in the world, travel agents and cobblers have gone the way of the Dinosaurs. Here in Belgium however, they are thriving businesses. At least as far as Belgian businesses go. My town has at least two cobblers and three travel agencies. I live in a small town. And as far as I can see, my town is not that different from any of the other ones around here. It seems every little village has a cobbler or two and a couple of travel agencies. The cobblers I can sort of understand. Belgium is hard on shoes. All the cobblestones and rain do not suggest thin italian soles or stilletos. But travel agents? Hasn't anyone ever heard of Orbitz or Expedia? William Shatner could make a killing here driving these little mom and pop shops out of business.

Lame Bar Crawl

It is time to go back to being a beer blog. Due to the dearth of beer reviews recently, and because we really had nothing better to do today, we headed out to Brussels for a mini bar crawl. It was mini largely because we are old and do not have the endurance or patience that a real Belgian Bar Crawl would require.

We started the day at Moeder Lambic Fontainas and in retrospect, we should have stayed there. As far as beer bars go, this place is right up there. What it lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for in selection. They have 46 beers on tap and another 150 bottled varietals. This is unusual for Belgium. The most common tap beers are Maes and Leffe, which are nothing to write home about. The best beers are typically in the bottle, so the fact that they have many unique beers on tap is interesting. The downside to this bar is that the beers are pretty expensive relative to most typical bars and they only pour a 25cl beer. That being said, if you want to test a lot of Belgian beers in one sitting, this is your place.

First beers up were the Zeezuiper from Scheldebrouwerij and the Rulles Tripel. The Zeezuiper is a very light, moderately hoppy ale. In some respects it had pilsner like characteristics but is a bit stronger at 8%. Probably a nice beer for a hot summer day while tackling a bowl of seafood. Overall, a little thin for my taste, but she who must be obeyed seemed to enjoy it very much Three and a half Drunk Monks.

The Rulles Tripel Hap more pronounced hop character and a creamier mouthfeel. There were distinct herbal and floral notes which were quite good. I liked this beer very much and was probably the best of the day. Four Drunk Monks!

While we enjoyed our Quiche, we ordered up another round and this time opted for the Kerkomse Tripel and a Bink Bloesem. Both beers come from Brouwerij Kerkom and apparently, the Tripel is also labeled as Bink Tripel for some markets. At 9% the Kerkomse Tripel is a strong beer with a bit of alcohol bite to it. Like the Rulles Tripel, it had a pronounced herbal character with a moderate level of hops. Not as good as the Rulles, I would give it three and a half Drunk Monks.

The Bink Bloesem is a little less strong Amber at 7.1%. This is somewhat sweeter beer with less hop character. I would almost characterize this as American in style. It is a lot like some of the microbrew amber ales that you can get in some of the better beer cities across the US. Not bad, three and a half Drunk Monks.

After lunch we wandered around Brussels for a little while. Originally we thought we might try to compare and contrast Moeder Lambic with the other well known beer bar, Delerium Café. We sat down at Delerium, but split after about two minutes. It is just too much of a tourist trap. Dirty, smoky and filled with an unsavory mix of drunk tourists. Not our scene.

So we wandered back toward Moeder Lambic and went to a nearby bar called Au Soleil. It is a tiny little bar with a smaller menu. A good list of beers including a couple we had not tried before. The Quintine Blonde (8%) and the Caracole (8%). The Caracole Blonde is made by the same brewery that made the La Troublette that I reviewed previously. As with the Troublette, this is a fairly light beer with a bit of sweetness and floral character. Three and a half Drunk Monks.

The Quintine Blonde had a bit more body than the Caracole. A moderately hopped blonde, it had fruity notes and an odd yeasty aroma. Again Three and a half Drunk Monks.

The last stop of the day was a bar just off the Grand Place that we knew would be a tourist trap, but they claimed to have a great beer list so we wandered in. We should have known better. They had all the standard beers and were set up like an American bar trying to be a Belgian bar. Really tragic. One last overpriced and watery beer and we were ready for the tram home.

West Flemish Westvleteren beer takes silver

West Flemish Westvleteren beer takes silver

Looks like a trip to Sweden may be in order.

She Who Must Be Obeyed, Domestic Goddess

She who must be obeyed and I have been married for... (hold on while I check the crosstich in the dining room)... Ok 14 years. In that entire time we have been a two-career family. That is, until we moved to Belgium. Due to some quirks of immigration, she can't really work here for a period of time. So she has taken up full-time domesticity. Frankly, I thought by this point in our expat experience she would have been climbing the walls and looking for any sort of responsible employment. But this is not the case. Quite the contrary actually. She has developed a fairly busy weekly calendar with regular trips to the gym, dance classes, dutch classes (we live in flanders), long walks and potentially a pilates class. In between, she takes care of all the little domestic tasks that we used to pay other people to do. And it is a good thing. With the short hours that all the businesses keep, we never would get grocery shopping or drycleaning done. She still can't cook and her ironing leaves something to be desired, but she is getting really fit and is incredibly relaxed. I am totally jealous.

Wine Culture

I wanted to title this, I like my wines like I like my women; ready to pass out. But she who must be obeyed suggested that she might be seeking consultation from her attorney (who happens to be her father) so you have the General Audiences title above.

One of the great things about living here is that there are so many good wines at good prices. These are not epic wines, but perfectly servicable wines. Most restaurants offer wines by the glass or the pichet (2-3 glasses in a carafe) and generally they are perfectly acceptable for five or six euro. Better still, you can order a very nice bottle in almost any restaurant for less than 20 euros. At that price, it is pretty easy to order a bottle with dinner and not think about it too much. Contrast this with most restaurants in the US. In the US you feel like a complete cheapskate if you do not order an expensive wine. Most restaurants wont even have bottles under $30 or if they do, it is the white zinfandel. I think American vintners could really take a lesson here. If the US will ever become a wine culture, then you need to make it more accessible. I do not want to break the bank every time I head out to a restaurant.

There may be a reason for this however. I am convinced that all the crap French wines go to America. They have had it in for us since Chateau Montelena took home the goods in a blind tasting back in 1976. Still, I can go to my local grocery store and pick up a Gigondas for 6 euro that is better than 90% of the ones I would get in Maryland for four times that. There has to be a reason. Perhaps they figure that because we will eat compressed chicken parts and cheese food product that we wont know the difference. And they are probably right.